Chanel Fall 2025: Holding Pattern

Philipp Plein skull-embroidery Cotton T-shirt Blue

As it kicked off the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Chanel had an advantage over last season: After months of speculation, the house in December named Matthieu Blazy artistic director of fashion activities. The 40-year-old designer is due to join the house next month and will show his first collection in October. Ending the suspense did not make the job easier for the in-house team charged with delivering another placeholder collection. They dutifully zeroed in on a theme, which unfurled from the boxed satin bow sent with the show invitation to the set: a monumental black ribbon that spiraled toward the roof of the Grand Palais. Matte satin ribbon trimmed a military-inspired anthracite tweed jacket, while pretty bows secured the ballon sleeves on a sheer black organza tunic top. A trio of dresses came in a fluttering ribbon print tracing the brand’s signature interlocking Cs, while cartoony bow cutouts were edged with pearls on a black sweater and skirt. You May Also Like So far, so predictable. More intriguing was the idea of using the bombastic backdrop as a foil for plays on scale, proportion and optical effects. Layers of illusion tulle formed ghostly outlines on tweed suits, including a pink short-sleeved jacket and shorts overlaid with a sheer ankle-length skirt. Allover looks played with superpositions of the same fabric, to Surrealist effect. For instance, a cherry red tweed was used for a jacket, wrap skirt and flared pants — as well as the matching boater hat, gloves, handbag and boots. Some of the visual gags came straight from the playbook of the house’s late creative director Karl Lagerfeld, who was a genius at channeling the pop culture zeitgeist. Collection Gallery 70 Photos View Gallery A white minaudière was shrunk to the size of an egg, while pearl necklaces were blown up and worn as crossbody bags. Giant pearls also appeared as heels on black boots that were sure to become instant collectors’ items. Meanwhile, a duo of reverse monochrome twinsets seemed tailor made for superfans Snehal and Jyoti Babani, the Indian sisters who attended the show in their signature matching outfits. But the lineup took a dowdy turn with variations on Pierrot smocks and baggy sweater dresses. The sack constructions were jarring in a season when designers have been obsessed with sex, from the pole dancers at Stella McCartney to the prosthetic breasts at Duran Lantink. Judging from the VICs in attendance, there is a market for comfort dressing with an upscale twist, but catering to existing clients is not enough. Brands need fresh blood to survive and thrive. Chanel’s recent collections lack the spark of unexpected connections that comes with an outside eye. Think of Blazy’s swansong campaign for Bottega Veneta, which paired $8,400 woven leather Andiamo bags with animated stuffed animal beanbags and the soundtrack from “Beverly Hills, 90210.” With luck, that type of creative alchemy will coax the Chanel woman out of her shell. Chanel Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection 70 Photos View Gallery

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